![]() From the age of 10, García proved himself a fast worker, gathering bales of pine straw that his dad could sell. Eventually he sent for the family to join him. He followed the growing season from the citrus groves of Florida to the fruit orchards of Michigan and sent money home. border (no passport was required) to work as an itinerant farm hand. While his mother tended the house, his father traveled freely over the U.S. García was born in rural Guanajuato in the central part of the country and moved with his family to the exploding metropolis of Mexico City, as did many other Mexicans in the 1970s. “There are so many Mexican cooks who migrate to the U.S., who make these border crossings,” she said, “and I began to think about the meaning of Mexican cooks in kitchens, and how a self-taught man could become one of the greatest chefs in the world.” I was informed it was an “immigration issue.” In truth, he had been deported and forbidden from ever reentering the United States. That did bring me out for a visit, though by the time I got there the much-touted chef was gone. The Sedgwicks apparently came to the same conclusion as they soon recast the space as Bistro VG, with a sleekly urbanized decor, lower prices and a revamped menu that better showcased García’s talents. ![]() I gave the pitch a tacit pass and put the press kit in a pile that was threatening to topple over on my desk: Van Gogh’s had felt stodgy and tired on my previous visits it felt out of step with the times. Owners Chris and Michele Sedgwick were excited to announce the appointment of Eduardo García as chef, a young man who had earned the sobriquet “Fast Eddie” when he was a cook at Lenox Square’s late, lamented Brasserie Le Coze. In the mid-2000s, when I was working as a restaurant critic for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, I received a press release from Van Gogh’s, then the flagship of North Fulton’s Sedgwick Restaurant Group. ![]()
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